

Windy was asked by some students today where she was living during her stay in Vilnius. She gave them our street name, and was surprised by the response. It was like she told them we lived on Mercer Island, Cherry Creek, or in La Jolla. Now, you have seen the pictures of the inside of the apartment, which is nicer than we could have expected, but their remarks still made me ponder a little. I know there are advantages to living in the Old Town, and that it is not exactly something that everyone here can easily attain, but it doesn't feel like the lap of luxury. There are much nicer streets in the Old Town, and I bet you can guess living across from a bar that occasionally masks itself as a biker bar (as in, tonight), is not one of those advantages. But to me, the courtyard really sums it up:
I walk into this courtyard everyday, after passing through a graffiti laden wooden gate big enough to drive a car through (because they do), and into this courtyard. Most of the courtyards on this street are similar to this. I think that the renovations that are taking place over much of the Old Town, haven't made it here yet. Which is kind of funny, because of our proximity to Gedimino pr., the Cathedral, the University, and the Presidential Palace (all within two blocks-in different directions). I love the apartment, and especially the private stairwell, but I have come to some realizations, so far. Of course, these are subject to change, as I become "more culturally informed," but for now they stand:
We live in much better conditions, inside our flat, than anyone else in the building/courtyard. We know this from peeking into windows when we can, or into open doorways occasionally. Windy's students probably thought of those apartments when she gave them our street, as they are more typical on these four total blocks. Which makes me wonder how surprised/impressed they would really be if they were to actually walk into the flat.
Still, why would a hip place so close to the University and Presidential Palace not have a nicer, more charming courtyard? I think it has to do with ownership. No one owns this courtyard, or most of the courtyards in use around town. Most people are likely renting their flat, and I think at least three separate buildings share this courtyard, which could translate to anywhere from three to a dozen, or more, owners. People spend their time, and money, on improving that which is truly theirs. Such as the inside of their individual flats. The other thing people spend their money on, is that which they can term as an investment. An improved courtyard has that "curb appeal" (man am I American), and would, no doubt, improve rent profits, or property values. But maybe it's because the whole market economy is still new to them, maybe its because there are other priorities with property development currently, or maybe there isn't the money available to spend on such things that would be deemed frivolous. Although, I can assure you, the amount of money that the average person spends here on fashion is frivolous. Most of the very nice courtyards I have seen so far, are in the extremely wealthy areas, a quaint business area, or that of one, single building. As such, I am stuck with this courtyard. It truly annoys me, partly because the inside of the apartment is so beautiful.
Our house is at the end of the straight path, turn a hairpin right and go up a set of stairs back towards the camera. I could have used a wide angle to get more, but the really bad part is behind me in this picture.
The second realization to which I have come is about graffiti. Those of you who know me, know that this is a particular bias for me back home. For all of the obvious reasons, and some not so obvious, I absolutely hate graffiti. But, when we were in DC at the Fulbright orientation, a previous Fulbrighter warned us about the excess of graffiti here. Then she provided the following caveat: "But it's not like at home. It doesn't mean the same thing in Europe." I took this at face value, ever hoping not to go in with my American blinders and sensibilities. But now that I have been here, Paris, and Rome, I can say that it really is a lot like home. It has the same roots, and means may of the same things:
It is, for the most part, perpetrated by males between the ages of 12-25.
It is usually communicating a message of dissatisfaction (this is the one area where many might argue its benefits, but I maintain there are other forums available), or of crime.
Rarely is it an artistic representation. More often, a scribble of some word like (I am paraphrasing) "thug" "punk" or "I am loser who tags."
It is extremely disrespectful of another's hard work, or creation.
It makes many people feel unsafe. Right, or wrong, it does have this effect, because it's message is usually hoping to intimidate someone.
Once it takes hold, it is very difficult to quash.
It is a blight.
None the less, it has been around for centuries (for instance the ruins of Pompeii), is a considered a petty crime by the justice system and society, and will be around for the long term future.
I may present some photos of random graffiti, and let you decide. Granted, I'll be choosing the pictures, and you know my opinion, but it may be interesting to hear if you agree with the Professor's words.
The other picture is the usual view from the top of the castle tower hill. Our apartment is halfway down the picture, and about two inches off of it. :)
3 comments:
I would not have pictured that as your courtyard at all. I guess I'm narrow-minded too. I pretty much feel the same about graffiti.
I am glad to hear that you're rich. ;-)
It must be wonderful and also a bit awesome to walk out of your house and see lovely architecture and history all around you. It seems it would constantly remind you of your small, short bit of importance on this earth, and of the accomnplishments of people over the centuries, that have nothing to do with the good old USA. And then - the graffiti - how similar is human nature all over the world and at all times. YUCK
Ditto to both of these! mc
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